Blog – Around the Island in 30 days!

KOHUKOHU

Population: 150

The settlement of Kohukohu on the shores of the Hokianga Harbour is one of New Zealand’s oldest settlements and the remaining cottages and shops seem virtually unchanged by time. The main road along the harbour is lined with historic timber buildings, including the former Bank of New Zealand, and adjacent Bank Manager’s House and Newspaper Building. The village has a large community of artists, writers and musicians and many of the old buildings have been converted into galleries, studios and cafés, without losing its charming historic appearance. There are nearly a dozen accommodation facilities in or around town, ranging from self catering to backpackers and camping. During the days of the timber trade, the town had an estimated population of 2,000.

HOKIANGA HARBOUR

The Hokianga Harbour cuts into the land from the Tasman Sea like a giant scar. It’s the fourth largest harbour in New Zealand and all along it’s shores are quaint historic villages with a thousand stories to tell. From Omapere and Opononi in the south west to Rawene further up the harbour, and Kohukohu and Horeke to the north east, these towns have been witness to many shipwrecks, to a time when Kauri gum and Kauri spars were profitable, the second signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, the Dog Tax War of the 1890’s, and the influenza epidemic of 1918 which killed many. Māori settled here many centuries ago, and the harbour is still known by its full name Te Hokianga-nui-a-Kupe. Europeans arrived during the early 19^th century and many of their first buildings still remain, including Horeke Hotel – the oldest surviving pub in New Zealand, and Mangungu Mission House. Today, the Hokianga Harbour is a scenic and tranquil place with charming villages and some of the prettiest churches in the country, which all deserves a second look.

MANGUNGU MISSION HOUSE & HOREKE

Motukiore Road, Horeke. +64-9-401 9624. Entrance fee. $. Open 10am-3pm. Sat-Mon Dec-Feb. Sat-Sun Mar-Apr, Easter Sat-Mon. Closed May-Nov, 25 Dec & Good Friday.

A short 4km/2.5mile drive from Wairere Boulders is the historic Mangungu Mission House, situated on an elevated spot overlooking the Hokianga Harbour. The stunning Georgian style house was built in 1838 and is of historical significance as the second major meeting place for discussing the Treaty of Waitangi. The cemetery is one of Northland’s oldest burial grounds and include the grave of James Reddy Clendon. Mangungu Mission House has limited opening hours and is located 2.5km/1.5miles west of the settlement of Horeke, site of the Deptford Dockyard – the first shipbuilding yard in New Zealand. Today the town is a tranquil place with good views of the harbour.

WAIRERE BOULDERS

McDonnell Road, Horeke. +64-9-401 9935. Entrance fee. $$. Open 7 days. Dusk til dawn.

If you’re a fan of off-the-beaten-track natural attractions, then this is sure to be of interest. Located in the Wairere Valley near the settlement of Horeke, 37km/23miles west of Rawene, is a geological nature park where you get to see peculiar rock formations, surrounded by subtropical forest. Walkways, bridges and stairs lead through the area and allow visitors to get up close to these ancient basalt boulders, some up to 30 metres/99.5ft in height. From Rawene, take State Highway 12 and follow the signs towards Horeke. The last part of the journey is on an unsealed road.

RAWENE

The small village of Rawene (population: 440) is a peaceful place on the southern shores of the Hokianga Harbour. The historic town centre is located at the tip of the narrow peninsula, where the ferry from Kohukohu arrives. Rawene is the third oldest European settlement in New Zealand and started as a timber milling community. Many of the colourful buildings along the water’s edge date from the late 19^th to early 20^th century, some of which are now cafés and galleries. If it wasn’t for the tarmac road, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve been transported to a century long gone. The town has limited facilities, which all adds to the charm of it, but accommodation is available, including a holiday park with superb views of the Hokianga Harbour.

WAIPOUA FOREST

Waipoua Forest is where you can see the most visited natural attraction along Northland’s west coast: Tāne Mahuta. Meaning ‘Lord of the Forest’ in Māori, this is the largest known Kauri tree in New Zealand and is believed to be around 2,000 years old. From the car park, an easy 3-minute walk through the stunning forest takes visitors to the awe-inspiring tree. It’s a humbling experience to be in the presence of such a magnificent tree and it’s hard to believe that most of the North Island was covered in ancient Kauri forests before humans arrived. With a height of 45.2m/148ft and girth of 15.44m/50.66ft, Tāne Mahuta is guaranteed to take your breath away and make you pause for a while. Don’t miss this incredible (free) attraction.

Waipoua Forest is one of the last great stands of Kauri forests in New Zealand and a short drive south of Tāne Mahuta is an opportunity to get up close to more of these awesome giants. Signposted as ‘Kauri Walks‘, a number of easy tracks lead to the Four Sisters, Te Matua Ngahere and Yakas. All three walks are highly recommended. Te Matua Ngahere (Father of the Forest) is even more impressive than Tāne Mahuta, with a girth of an incredible 16.76m/54.99ft, and believed to be older than 2,000 years. The walk to Yakas – the 7^th largest Kauri tree – is via a magnificent forest track that passes the impressive Cathedral Grove. It’s best to do these walks early in the morning when you have the forest all to yourself. Simply unforgettable!

THE KUMARA BOX

503 Pouto Road, Dargaville. +64-9-439 7018. Kumara Show. $$. Bookings essential.

If you think this attraction is only about kumara (sweet potato), think again. Sure, you have the kumara fields, but there’s also a unique little train ($) that takes visitors through the fields where information about this humble vegetable is shared; the old kumara warehouse is now home to interesting memorabilia from the region, there is a fascinating maritime collection, and you can also visit New Zealand’s smallest chapel. It is advisable to phone ahead before you visit.

THE KAURI MUSEUM

From Dargaville, the Twin Coast Discovery Highway continues on its last stretch along the remote west coast. About 45km/28miles south east of Dargaville, the settlement of Matakohe is bypassed by the highway, but it’s worth turning into town to visit the large Kauri Museum (5 Church Road, Matakohe. +64-9-431 7417. Entrance fee. $$$. Open 7 days. 9am-5pm. Closed 25 Dec). Exhibits focus on the pioneering days of New Zealand, and the subsequent destruction of magnificent Kauri forests. The museum holds the largest collection of Kauri gum and Kauri furniture in the world, including a fully furnished period Kauri house. Also onsite is the historic Post Office, Pioneer Church and School. This is one of the best museums in the region.

PIROA FALLS

The road east of Paparoa continues to the settlement of Maungaturoto, from where a mostly unsealed road leads to the picturesque Piroa Falls, set within the Waipu Gorge Scenic Reserve. The falls are located 8km/5miles from the township via Gorge Road, and an easy 20-minute return walk takes visitors to the base of the waterfall with its series of pools and swimming holes in a natural bush setting and peaceful location.

WHANGAROA

State Highway 10 north of Kerikeri continues through gorgeous scenery and just beyond the small town of Kaeo it’s worth taking a detour to the settlement of Whangaroa. Tucked away on the edge of one of the most beautiful harbours, the town provides a delightful side trip. The harbour is surrounded by tall cliffs and intriguing rock formations, and the volcanic outcrop St Paul’s Rock dominates the skyline above Whangaroa. The landscape around here is remnants of ancient volcanoes that erupted millions of years ago. For a truly spectacular bird’s eye view of the harbour, take the short but steep St Paul’s Rock Track (start at the car park at the end of Old Hospital Road). Another way to explore the awesome harbour scenery is by water taxi (+64-9-405 1844. $$$$. Bookings essential).

MANGONUI

Mangonui is a charming town on the water’s edge and you simply can’t help but stop to start exploring. It is a popular tourist destination thanks to its great location and pretty features. The cafés with outdoor seating is testament to the mild weather, and a number of fantastic fish & chip shops tempt visitors to grab a bite and enjoy it by the picturesque waterside.

The waterfront is lined with cafés, mature trees and beautiful, well preserved historic buildings, most notably the magnificent Mangonui Hotel and adjacent Wharf Store, that dominate the historic precinct of the town. Other beautiful heritage buildings along the strip include the Mangonui Courthouse (124 Waterfront Drive), Former Post Office (118 Waterfront Drive), Mangonui Store (115 Waterfront Drive), Old Oak Hotel (66 Waterfront Drive), and the Old Bakehouse (50 Waterfront Drive). The buildings are interpreted through information boards and provide a fascinating insight to the history of the area. The quaint St Andrew’s Church and Bell Tower (9 Colonel Mould Drive), one of New Zealand’s oldest churches, is located adjacent to the Former Mangonui School on the hilltop just above the historic precinct with breathtaking views of the harbour. Pick up a Heritage Trail of Mangonui leaflet from the Information Centre for a walking trail that takes in 18 historic buildings.

Mangonui will make a great overnight spot before you venture further to the northernmost tip of New Zealand.

GUMDIGGERS PARK

11.5km/7miles North of Awanui, on a short detour off State Highway 1, is one of the Aupouri Peninsula’s most fascinating attractions – Gumdiggers Park (171 Heath Road. +64-9-406 7166. Entrance fee. $$. Open 7 days. Summer 9am-5pm. Winter 9am-4pm), which provides a glimpse into the Kauri gum trade. Kauri gum is sap from Kauri trees that become hard over time and resemble amber. During the 19^th century the gum was dug up from ancient fallen Kauri forests and when polished, it was used to make jewellery, or as in ingredient in varnish. This became a very lucrative trade. Gumdiggers Park is an authentic 19^th century gumdiggers village, complete with workers’ huts (known as Sack Huts), the old gumstore, machinery, gum holes and tunnels, as well as an ancient buried Kauri forest, and a giant 100,000 year old Kauri tree trunk. Highly recommended.

GIANT TE PAKI AND NINETY MILE BEACH

Shortly before reaching Cape Reinga, is the turnoff to Giant Te Paki that takes travellers to the great sand dunes, up to 100m/328ft high. This is the place to go to for sand safaris and dune surfing, which can be booked through the Information Centre in Kaitaia (+64-9-408 9450, see page…), south of Awanui. Giant Te Paki is the main access point to Ninety Mile Beach and many cars and tourist buses use this for trips along the famous beach, which is in fact only 55miles (88km) long. If you have a rental vehicle, it may not be insured to be used on the beach, so it’s advisable to check with your rental company. There is a serious risk that any vehicle other than a 4WD or bus will get stuck in the sand, especially when wet.

The 48km/30mile Te Paki Coastal Track (Cape Reinga Coastal Walkway) start at the Te Paki Stream near Giant Te Paki and continue up the west coast to just south of Cape Maria van Diemen, from where it shoots east to Cape Reinga, and then south to Spirits Bay. The entire walk takes about 3-4 days to complete. Pick-up and drop-off can be arranged through Waitiki Landing Complex (+64-9-409 7508), 7km/4.5miles south of Te Paki Stream.

CAPE REINGA

A well laid out track from the car park leads to one of the most famous lighthouses in New Zealand – Cape Reinga Lighthouse that was built in 1942. It is a place where the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean collide in an explosion of waves. The views from the hilltop are dramatic and immense. Māori mythology tells of the spirits of the dead that leap from here into the waters below so they can return to their ancestral homeland, and as such, Cape Reinga is considered a sacred place and eating is not permitted beyond the entrance.

Set within Te Paki Recreation Reserve, several walking tracks cross the area, including the 2km/1mile Te Werahi Beach Track; and the stunning Te Paki Coastal Track, that takes trampers (hikers) along a spectacular coastline, across sand dunes, and past swamps brimming with birdlife.

A DOC campsite ($$) is located in a gloriously scenic location on Tapotupotu Bay, 5km/3miles south of Cape Reinga. This is New Zealand’s northernmost camping ground.

Cape Reinga is a special place and the experience should not be rushed. Arrive early morning before the thousands of tourists turn up by the busload.

PAWARENGA VALLEY

From Herekino, the road meanders through rural scenery where the many abandoned homes along the route tells of the settlements that started and disappeared during the course of history as people tried to make a living in this remote part of the country. If the weather is good, and if you have time to spare, it’s worth taking the 38km/23.5miles return detour to the Pawarenga Valley to visit one of New Zealand’s prettiest churches, set within an incredibly scenic location. The timber St Gabriel’s Church in the tiny settlement of Pawarenga is a striking building in a dramatic setting overlooking the Whangape Harbour. Built in 1899, it is one of the earliest Catholic Māori churches on its original site in the Hokianga. The scenic drive there and back is partly on unsealed roads and is signposted as ‘Panguru’ from the highway.

RUSSELL

Situated in the spectacular Bay of Islands, Russell is a delightful town where cafés and restaurants in historic buildings line the water’s edge. It is a mecca for tourists, particularly during the holiday season, when the town is packed with visitors from all over New Zealand and the world. Yet, despite greater visitor numbers, the town has retained much of its tranquil charm and it is a lovely place to spend a few hours or a few days. Russell is particularly popular for water activities, including fishing, jet boating, or sailing on the splendid tall ship R. Tucker Thompson (+64-9-402 8430. $$$$-$+).

It’s hard to believe, now, that Russell – with its population of 850 – was once the capital of New Zealand. This remote corner of the North Island was the first European permanent settlement in the country, dating back to the 1840’s. Many historic buildings still remain, including Christ Church, the country’s oldest church (Church Street); Pompallier Mission House, the oldest surviving building associated with the Roman Catholic Church in New Zealand (The Strand. +64-9-403 9015. Entrance fee. $. Open 7 days. Nov-Apr 10am-5pm. May-Oct 10am-4pm. Closed 25 Dec); Clendon Cottage (5 The Strand); and the Former Customhouse (37 The Strand). The Russell Museum (5 York Street. +64-9-403 7701. Entrance fee. $. Open 7 days. 10am-4pm. Closed 25 Dec) holds a wonderful collection of historic photographs and artifacts and it’s a great place to find out more about the history of Russell, originally called Kororāreka.

Getting to Russell is by means of car ferry from Opua to Okiata, followed by an 8km/5miles drive to Russell; or passenger ferry ($$) direct from Paihia to Russell. For a scenic drive, you can take the 40km/25miles route from Kawakawa to Russell via Waikare Road. About 15km/9miles of this road is narrow and unsealed as it winds its way through the beautiful Russell Forest, and even though it is in good condition, you should allow plenty of time for the journey.

WHAREPUKE SCULPTURE PARK

190 Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri. +64-9-407 8933. Entrance fee. $. Open 7 days. 10am-5pm.

What started in 1993 as a subtropical garden with unusual and interesting plants gradually developed into an outdoor sculpture park, which can be explored along a bush trail. As with all art, it’s best enjoyed if you go with an open mind. Some sculptures are charming and quirky whilst others are bizarre and thought-provoking. All in a delightful setting.

KERIKERI MISSION HOUSE & STONE STORE

246 Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri. +64-9-407 9236. Entrance fee. $. Open 7 days. Nov-Apr 10am-5pm. May-Oct 10am-4pm. Closed 25 Dec.

The Mission House, was built in 1821 and a little more than a decade later, the impressive Stone Store was completed. The ground floor of the Stone Store is now a shop and is free to visit. The upstairs is a museum with an interesting collection of photographs and artifacts. Mission House, also known as Kemp House, remains virtually unchanged since it was first built and it feels as if you’ve been transported back to an era when all items had a purpose as opposed to being no more than superficial clutter. Mission House can be viewed by guided tour only. Definitely worth the small entrance fee.

THE PARROT PLACE

1 Mission Road, Kerikeri. +64-9-407 5146. Entrance fee. $. Open Tue-Sat 10am-4pm. Sun 10am-3pm. ANZAC Day from 1pm. Closed Mondays, 25 & 26 Dec, 1 Jan, Good Friday.

If you love the idea of getting close to birds – and you don’t mind them getting close to you! – then this bird sanctuary should be high on your list of things to do. From the outside it may seem like just another suburban house, but once inside, lush subtropical gardens, large walk-through aviaries and hundreds of colourful birds from all over the world make this a great visit. The parrots are all too happy to welcome visitors in a noisy, chattering twitter, and don’t be surprised if a few sociable ones come sit on your shoulder – or head – for a closer inspection. Lots of fun.

AKEAKE HISTORIC RESERVE, DOVES BAY

Located at the end of a picturesque peninsula, 16km/10miles north east of Kerikeri, is the Akeake Historic Reserve. A walking track starts at the end of Opito Bay Road at the tranquil settlement of Opito Bay. The well marked bush walk leads to Tareha Point Scenic Lookout where a viewing platform offers panoramic views of the Kerikeri Inlet. It is also location of the fortified Tareha pā, associated with Ngati Rehia Chief Tareha, an ally of Hongi Hika.

WHANGAREI

A.H. Reed Memorial Kauri Park

199 Whareora Road, Whareora, Whangarei. Free.

A.H. Reed Kauri Park is an absolute gem! With several 500-year old Kauri trees set within a lush forest, the park gives a glimpse of what the North Island of New Zealand must have looked like before human settlement. Start your walk in the lower car park on Whareora Road and take the Alexander Walk, which runs parallel to the Wai Koromiko Stream and continues to the impressive Canopy Walkway, where you come face to face with the giants of the forest (Kauri). For a shorter walk, start at the middle car park that leads directly to the Canopy Walk. If you have plenty of time to spare, continue with the Hatea Walkway towards Whangarei Falls. The scenery is gorgeous and the approach to the falls is simply out of this world. Highly recommended. To get to the Park, take Banks Road from town and follow it for approximately 2.5km/1.5miles, then turn right at the fork onto Whareora Road. The lower car park is about 1.5km/1mile further on the left.

CLAPHAMS NATIONAL CLOCK MUSEUM

Town Basin, Dent Street, Whangarei. +64-9-438 3993. Entrance fee. $. Open 7 days. 9am-5pm. Closed 25 Dec.

Housed in a striking building with a giant sundial in front of it, the museum is sure to offer a few pleasant surprises. This is believed to be the largest clock collection in the Southern Hemisphere, and the vast array of interesting, unique and amusing timekeeping devices from different eras are simply mind blowing. It’s wonderful to admire the creative designs and exquisite craftsmanship, and there’s also a very interesting music box. With a modest entrance fee and so much to see, the Claphams Clock Museum will not disappoint. Highly recommended.

KIWI NORTH – KIWI HOUSE, MUSEUM & HERITAGE PARK

500 State Highway 14, Maunu, Whangarei. +64-9-438 9630. Entrance fee. $$. Open 7 days. 10am-4pm.

Located 6km/4miles from the city centre along State Highway 14, Kiwi North is the perfect place to see that elusive New Zealand icon – the kiwi. These adorable flightless birds are nocturnal and their habitat has been recreated in the special Kiwi House so that visitors are able to get up close to them. Another New Zealand icon – the tuatara, a reptile which is the only surviving species of its order – can also be seen at Kiwi North. The Heritage Park features several authentic buildings from the mid 19^th to early 20^th century, including the octagonal Oruaiti Chapel, the Jane Mander Study, a women’s jail, school and the Clarke Family Homestead. Allow several hours to see all that is on offer.

PACKARD AND PIONEER MUSEUM

Old Dairy Factory, State Highway 14, Maungatapere. +64-9-434 8214. Entrance fee. $$. Open Wed-Sat 10am-4pm.

The small settlement of Maungatapere is located 12km/7.5miles southwest of Whangarei and doesn’t offer much in terms of amenities. But it has been placed on the tourist map thanks largely to the magnificent Packard Motor Museum. The collection is held in four sheds and is truly impressive. There are luxury Packards from as early as 1919, motorcycles from 1904, WWII Military vehicles, and even a rare Humber Landaulette from 1906, believed to be the only one in New Zealand. Even if you’re not an automobile fan, these vintage vehicles are sure to put a smile on your face. And if that doesn’t, perhaps the collection of vintage typewriters, tools, vacuum cleaners and potato mashers will! Allow at least two hours for the guided tour.

WHANGAREI QUARRY GARDENS

37a Russell Road, Kensington, Whangarei. +64-9-437 7210. Entry by Donation. Open 7 days. 9am-5pm.

Located inside a historic stone quarry from the 1940’s, it has been transformed into a lush garden where each season brings its own surprises. Many walkways take visitors through a subtropical garden sanctuary, set within the striking setting of the old quarry. The walk to the picturesque lake at the top of the garden is steep in places, but definitely worth the effort.

TUTUKAKA

The picturesque harbour village of Tutukaka is located 29km/18miles from Whangarei on the east coast. The town is the gateway to the spectacular Poor Knights Islands (see below) and many cruises and diving excursions start from here. Even if you’re not visiting the islands, Tutukaka has plenty to offer. The Tutukaka Headland Reserve has numerous walkways, including the Lighthouse Track that runs along the top of a headland, with amazing views of the coastline. The reserve can be accessed via Landowners Lane (also signposted as ‘Private Road’), just north of the town. It’s also worth exploring the many stunning secluded beaches along the Tutukaka Coast, which was rated by National Geographic Traveller as one of the top coastal destinations on the planet.

For an additional detour, visit the picturesque coastal settlements of Ngunguru, 3km/2miles south of Tutukaka, and Matapouri, 7km/4.5miles north.

WARKWORTH

Having been settled since the 1850’s, the town has a number of beautiful historic buildings, but none more fascinating than the extensive ruins of the heritage listed Wilson’s Hydraulic Lime and Cement Works (simply known as Mahurangi Cement Works). It lies in a striking setting on the banks of the Mahurangi River, just south of town. Built in the late 19^th century, the factory operated for less than 50 years before it closed down in 1929. Much of it still remain, including the towers, and there is a distinctly creepy feel about the place. Perhaps because it is allegedly haunted, with mysterious shadows moving amongst the old ruins.

WARKWORTH DISTRICT MUSEUM & PARRY KAURI PARK

Warkworth District Museum

Parry Kauri Park, Tudor Collins Drive, Warkworth. +64-9-425 7093. Entrance fee. $. Open 7 days. Summer 10am-4pm. Winter 10am-3pm. Closed 25 Dec & Good Friday.

The museum has a collection of historic artifacts, furniture and costume from the pioneering days of Warkworth and the district. Of particular interest is the 1920’s precinct. For such a small museum there is a surprising large number of objects and memorabilia. Whilst there, you simply must take a walk in the adjoining Parry Kauri Park,where boardwalks lead through a rainforest of ferns, Rimu and Kauri trees, including the 800 year old McKinney Kauri, named after a former landowner. To find out more about the native trees in the park, simply pick up a free brochure from the Museum Shop.

BRICK BAY SCULPTURE PARK

Arabella Lane, Snells Beach. +64-9 425 4690. Entrance fee. $$. Open 7 days. 10am-5pm. Last entry 4pm.

With nearly 50 sculptures – some created within the landscape itself – Brick Bay is sure to delight its guests. A 2km/1.2mile trail takes visitors along a stunning landscape of mature trees, green pastures, and picturesque lakes, where every corner seem to reveal another wonderful sculpture or work of art. Allow at least an hour to see everything. There is also a restaurant and wine tasting.

LEIGH

The picturesque fishing village of Leigh lies 13km/8miles east of Matakana, and 22km/13.5miles from Warkworth. Considered gateway to the unique Cape Rodney-Okakari Point Marine Reserve and Goat Island, the area around Leigh lends itself to some great coastal and bush walks, such as the Ti Point Coastal Walk, with incredible views over the harbour.

WHANGAREI HEADS & BREAM HEAD

Located 27km/16.5miles southeast of Whangarei, the drive to Whangarei Heads is incredibly scenic and is worth the trip. The Whangarei Heads Tourist Drive starts at the Town Basin in Whangarei and it soon hugs the picturesque Whangarei Harbour in a close embrace as you pass through delightful settlements such as Parua Bay and McLeod Bay before you reach Whangarei Heads. Mount Manaia dominates the landscape and a walking track to the summit offers breathtaking views of the peninsula and harbour. The track starts at the car park at Mount Manaia Club on Whangarei Heads Road.

Stunning Ocean Beach is another 8km/5miles drive further east and along the way you have plenty of opportunity to explore the magnificent Bream Head Scenic Reserve, including a track to the historic gun battery (from the Urquharts Bay car park). The reserve is the best example of a coastal forest in the Northland and is simply wonderful. There are a number of walking tracks within the reserve and the Peach Cove Track offers an overnight hut ($$. Bookings essential. +64-9-470 3300). Plenty of accommodation is available throughout the Whangarei Heads, including at the more remote settlements of Pataua and Taiharuru on the north eastern edges of the peninsula – the perfect place to spend the night in pure tranquility.