Day 26 – Otorohanga to Matamata

WAITOMO VILLAGE ROAD

11km/7miles north of Te Kuiti is Waitomo Village Road (formerly Waitomo Caves Road), with an amazing array of unmissable natural attractions. The road stretches for 65.5km/41miles from the settlement of Hangatiki to Marokopa on the west coast. It’s worth making the entire journey if time allows. The more adventurous can opt to do blackwater rafting, cave tubing and abseiling 100m/328ft into an epic 7 hour underground adventure. The Information Centre in Waitomo will have all the information you need.

Mangapohue Natural Bridge
Marokopa Falls
Waitomo Glow worm caves
Glow worms on the Spellbound Caves tour
https://www.glowworm.co.nz/

SPELLBOUND CAVES

15 Waitomo Village Road, Waitomo. +64-7-878 7622. 0800 773 552 (within NZ). Entry fee. $$$$. No Flash Photography in the glow worm cave.

Visitors get the chance to visit two caves on the 3.5 hour tour: the Spellbound Glow Worm Caves that include a boat ride on an underground river to view the glow worms, and the walk-through Cave of the Spirit, an impressive cave with stunning stalagmites and stalactites. Both caves are largely unmodified, with a boardwalk snaking its way through the cave system, which is simply magical. The caves are on private land and the tour includes a scenic drive to get to the caves, as well as a refreshment break with hot drinks and biscuits. You pay a little more here than at the other cave tours, but the groups are kept to a minimum of 12 people and the tour is unhurried and simply unforgettable. Highly recommended.

SANCTUARY MOUNTAIN MAUNGATAUTARI

99 Tari Road, Pukeatua. +64-7-870 5180. Entrance fee. $$. Tours $$$. Open 7 days. 8.30am-4pm. Closed 25 Dec.

Situated 28km/17miles east of Te Awamutu, Sanctuary Mountain is the largest ecological restoration project in New Zealand. An astonishing 47km/29miles of predator-proof fence encircles the entire sanctuary in an effort to keep out stoats, rodents, possums, rabbits, deer and other perceived pests that may be destructive to the native fauna and flora. A number of walks take visitors through a picturesque forest and range from half an hour to two hours, including guided Night Tours when you may hear the call of the elusive kiwi, or see glow worms. Other highlights include weta boxes, bird feeding areas, and the Canopy Tower, which offers great views of the surrounding forest. This is a superb New Zealand experience. Highly recommended.

Hihi feeding station, where visitors get up close with hihi.
https://www.sanctuarymountain.co.nz/

TIRAU

The small country town of Tirau is a great day trip if you like the idea of quirky and unique attractions. Tirau is known for its unusual and remarkable corrugated iron buildings. Where else will you find a building in the shape of a sheep, a ram, or a dog with its tongue sticking out. The sheer scale of these buildings is impressive, and it makes for an unforgettable sight. Throughout the town you will see more corrugated signs and icons, including a large Shepherd that guards over The Dog. Tirau is located 54km/33.5miles southeast of Hamilton and 20km/12miles south of Matamata.

Day 25 – New Plymouth to Otorohanga

NEW PLYMOUTH

Taranaki’s largest town is as pretty as its surroundings. As if its location on the west coast, and close proximity to the stunning Egmont National Park and Mount Taranaki is not enough, the city also boasts magnificent parks and reserves, and award winning walkways. It is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts, and activities include walking, cycling, swimming, water skiing, surfing, skiing, and snowboarding. New Plymouth is also the artistic and cultural hub of the Taranaki region.

The inner city is relatively small and it’s easy to find your way around, thanks to the grid system and the fact that it is right by the waterfront. There are a number of cinemas, theatres, artist studios and galleries in town, including the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery & Len Lye Centre, and Puke Ariki (see Attractions), which houses the Information Centre, Museum and Library in one magnificent complex. A seemingly endless supply of excellent cafés and restaurants, mostly along Devon Street, entice visitors to relax a while. If you’re looking for something quaint and quiet, seek out the cafés in the streets leading off Devon Street.

The stunning 11km/7miles Coastal Walkway along the foreshore stretches almost the entire length of the city and along the way you’ll come across the iconic Wind Wand, standing 48 metres/157ft tall, and the spectacular Te Rewa Rewa Bridge across the Waiwhakaiho River at the northern end of the walkway. To the south, the walkway ends at Ngamotu Beach near the port. Just around the corner from Ngamotu Beach is one of the city’s many green spaces – Paritutu Centennial Park, where Paritutu Rock is a natural New Plymouth landmark. A short (but steep!) climb to the top offers fantastic 360 degree views of the coastline: the Sugarloaf Islands, the port and the city. Definitely worth the effort.

In the heart of the city is stunning Pukekura Park. Set on 121 acres/49 hectaresof gorgeous grounds, the park offers a tranquil retreat, with the Pukekura Stream meandering gently through the park, and a number of bridges cross it. This is a Garden of National Significance and some of its many fine features include picturesque lakes, waterfalls, Poet’s Bridge, the Queen Elizabeth II Fountain, a waterwheel, fernery, the 19th century band rotunda and a drinking fountain, the Japanese Mishima Torii Gate, Chinese Gardens, and the Gables Colonial Hospital, dating from 1847. Brooklands Zoo is also located within the park. The TSB Bank Festival of Lights, held every year from mid-December – early February, attracts thousands of visitors and is not to be missed. Set aside at least half a day, if not a full day, to fully explore Pukekura Park.

Northwest of Pukekura Park, on Robe Street, is the Marsland Hill Historic Reserve and Observatory(+64-21-751 524. Entrance fee. $. Open Tuesdays. Winter from 7.30pm. Summer from 8.30pm), from where you can view the awesome southern skies. Situated on a hilltop, the reserve offers fantastic vistas over the city and is a great spot for a picnic. The hill was a military base during the Māori Wars of 1860-1870. At the bottom of the reserve is the oldest stone church in New Zealand – the magnificent heritage listed Taranaki Cathedral Church of St Mary (37 Vivian Street). The original part of the church dates from 1845.

Those interested in historic architecture should also visit the superb heritage listed stone building of Te Henui Vicarage(290 Courtenay Street). It was built in 1845 and is one of New Zealand’s oldest buildings. It is one of only a handful buildings in New Plymouth that were not destroyed during the New Zealand Wars of the 1860’s, and it now seems strangely out of place in the middle of a modern suburb. Since the early 1970’s, it is used as a potter’s studio, and the gallery can be visited on weekends and public holidays (1pm-4pm). At the end of Courtenay Street you can link up with Te Henui Walkway, a popular and beautiful walkway that follows the river north to the ocean.

Other notable parks and reserves include Meeting of the Waters Scenic Reserve (also signposted as Waiwhakaiho Scenic Reserve), (7km/4miles south of New Plymouth on State Highway 3, then follow Waiwakaiho Road to the car park at the end of the road); Ratapihipihi Scenic Reserve with its subtropical rainforest and picturesque waterfall (7.4km/4.5miles south of New Plymouth. Follow Tukapapa Street to Cowling Road and turn into Ratapihipihi Road); and Tūpare Garden, situated 6km/4miles south of the city along Mangorei Road on the banks of the Waiwhakaiho River. Tūpare was established in 1932 and features several themed gardens, a beautiful restored historic homestead, and a number of walking tracks (steep in places) from where you can see Mount Taranaki’s dome. Definitely worth a visit.

New Plymouth offers an impressive selection of accommodation and shopping, and makes a great base to explore Egmont National Park, Mount Taranaki and surrounding towns.

Te Rewa Rewa Bridge
Len Lye Centre

THREE SISTERS

About 6km/4miles north of Ahititi, near the town of Tongaporutu, is yet another of nature’s incredible creations – the impressive Three Sisters. These rock formations are best visited at low tide when you can walk along the beach and experience the true magnitude of it all. The surrounding scenery is quite spectacular and there are also caves where you can view peculiar Māorirock carvings. For great views of the Three Sisters, turn down Pilot Road, just across the bridge from Tongaporutu to the north.

HAIRY FEET WAITOMO

1411 Mangaotaki Road, Piopio. +64-7-877 8003. Tour fee. $$$$. Daily tours. 10am & 1pm. Bookings advisable.

This 90-minute tour takes visitors into the stunning Mangaotaki Valley, where limestone cliffs rule the landscape. The tour will be of particular interest to fans of ‘The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey’ as it was used extensively for the film, but the tour will also appeal to outdoor enthusiasts who appreciate magnificent scenery in a remote location. A short trip on the shuttle bus takes you to the incredible cliffs, in a landscape scattered with amazing limestone formations, and stunning forest. Photographs showing the exact spot where filming took place makes for an exciting and memorable journey. Take Kaka Road from town and then follow Mangaotaki Road for approximately 14km/9miles. Highly recommended.

Hairy Feet Waitomo
https://hairyfeetwaitomo.co.nz/
Waitanguru Falls, 5.5km north of Hairy Feet Waitomo.

Day 24 – Stratford to New Plymouth

EGMONT NATIONAL PARK

Egmont National Park is an area of spectacular forests, streams and waterfalls, which is dominated by the perfect cone-shaped dormant volcano of Mount Taranaki. Covering an area of 335km2/129sqmi, it is simply breathtaking. This is one of the oldest and most easily accessible national parks in the country and can be reached along Manaia Road from Manaia, Pembroke Road from Stratford, or Egmont Road from New Plymouth, which takes visitors to the North Egmont Visitor Centre (+64-6-756 0990). The park boasts an extensive network of walking tracks, from short walks to the stunning three day Pouakai Circuit (start at the Visitor Centre). Easy walks include Kamahi Loop Track that takes walkers to the Goblin Forest, which seems almost surreal with its twisted moss covered tree trunks; you’ll think you’ve stepped onto a movie set. The walking track starts just above Stratford Mountain House on Pembroke Street. The picturesque 18m/59ft Dawson Falls can be reached along an easy walking track from Manaia Road on the south eastern side of the park (take Celia Street from Stratford and follow the signs to Dawson Falls). Be prepared as the weather can change rapidly and the mountain receives high annual rainfall, even during summer. Experienced walkers can do the 5 day Around the Mountain Circuit –a 52km/32miles loop track with breathtaking alpine scenery. Several huts throughout the park provide accommodation ($-$$) on a first come first served basis. There are also two lodges ($$) which must be booked in advance (+64-6-756 0990). During winter the cone of Mount Taranaki is covered in a thick blanket of snow and the Manganui Ski Area is open from June to September.

TAWHITI MUSEUM

401 Ohangai Road, Hawera. +64-6-278 6837. Entrance fee. $$. Open Fri-Mon 10am-4pm. Open 7 days 26 Dec-31 Jan. Jun-Aug Sundays only.

It’s not hard to see why this is regarded as the best private museum in the country. From life-size sculptures that depict incredibly realistic scenes of colonial life with a touch of humour, to mind blowing miniature landscapes that include literally thousands of greatly detailed people, villages, wakas (canoes), and ships as it re-enacts historic events. Everything is designed and made on the premises by one man, which makes the scale of some of these miniature creations even more astonishing. Take a ride on the Bush Railway ($), admire the vintage tractors and machinery in the Farmpower Hall, or grab a bite to eat from the badger themed café. A highlight is the Traders & Whalers ($$) exhibit where you sit in a log boat and drift along the river through an eerie, dark world whilst witnessing village life and raging battles along the riverbank. Place this at the top of your list when visiting Taranaki.

https://www.tawhitimuseum.co.nz/

OPUNAKE

Population: 1,360

Distance from Hawera: 43km/27miles

The small town of Opunake has a wonderful location overlooking the ocean, and marvellous views towards Mount Taranaki. Although the town is small, it offers a number of accommodation options – including camping right on the beach – and there are several eateries and takeaway shops. Opunake is also known for its nearly two dozen colourful murals scattered throughout town, mostly along the main road, that tells of the history of the settlement. The Opunake Walkway is a popular walk that takes visitors across the cliffs for spectacular views of the rugged coastline, particularly at the Waiaua River Mouth. The Namu Pa, a Māori fortification where a famous battle took place, can also be seen from the northern end of the walkway. The 7km/4miles walkway starts at Layard Street by the scenic Opunake Lake.

EVERYBODY’S THEATRE

72 Tasman Street, Opunake. +64-27-290 2892 / +64-27-313 7494. Ticket price. $.

It’s not often that a cinema makes it onto the list of attractions (with the exception of Cinema Paradiso in Wanaka on the South Island), but this one is quite unique and deserves to be mentioned. You can’t help but to notice the cheerful facade of the historic building and once you enter, it’s like stepping back in time. The foyer is wonderfully art deco in style, and the cinema seating consists of a quirky assortment of old sofas and couches, with the odd few coffee tables (and a blanket or two to keep the chills away during winter). Makes you wish all cinemas were as homely as this one!

http://www.everybodystheatre.co.nz/

Day 23 – The Forgotten World Highway

FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY

This 150km/93miles stretch of road takes travellers into the heart of a world forgotten by time, with dramatic scenery, deep gorges, abandoned homes, and tiny settlements, of which Whangamomona with its population of 30 is the largest. There are no petrol stations along the route, and limited facilities, and it is advisable to stock up in Stratford before you commence the journey. Although the road seems relatively short, it is a winding, narrow road that climbs a number of saddles, with about 12km/7.5miles of unsealed road. Allow at least three hours to two days to complete the journey, depending on the number of stops you intend to make. With the sheer number of attractions and magnificent scenery along the way, it is recommended that you don’t plan to travel much further beyond the Forgotten World Highway in one day. All along the route you will find information panels that provide fascinating insight into the history and geography of the area. The Information Centre in Stratford has a map of the Forgotten World Highway, showing all attractions.

The first part of the journey takes travellers through the wide expanse of patchy farmland that is so synonymous with this part of Taranaki. One of the first settlements is Douglas, which consist of only a small scattering of houses next to the road. From here the scenery changes dramatically as the road gradually ascends Strathmore Saddle, the first of four saddles. There is a great picnic spot on the summit with magnificent views of Mount Taranaki to the west and the mountains of Ruapehu, Tongariro and Ngauruhoe to the east. It’s almost impossible to believe that, millions of years ago, Strathmore Saddle lay at the bottom of the ocean. Yet, there are many fossilized shells to prove this as fact.

Strathmore Saddle

From the village of Strathmore a short 4km/2.5mile detour along Brewer Road leads to the historic Makahu Tunnel, set within stunning scenery of the Kirai Scenic Reserve. The tunnel was constructed in 1907.

Just beyond Strathmore is a chance to stretch your legs at Te Wera Arboretum, where visitors can enjoy a short but beautiful forest walk through a collection of trees that were planted during the early 1960s by the Newz Zealand Forest Service. Soon after, the road climbs and descends another two saddles, the Pohokura Saddle and Whangamomona Saddle, both offering spectacular views of the surrounding landscape.

Te Wera Aroboretum

The small village of Whangamomona is the first (and only) sizeable town on the Forgotten World Highway. With a population of only 30, the town feels almost deserted. A number of pretty timber buildings line the streets, including the iconic Whangamomona Hotel, a disused Post Office, General Store (of which only the facade remains), a church, and, of course, a passport control booth! The village was tongue-in-cheek proclaimed a Republic in 1989, a move that has placed it firmly on the tourist map. The Repulic Day celebrations, held biannually every January since 2001, draw thousands of visitors to this remote part of New Zealand. The entire village seems like a replica pioneer village attraction and it takes a while to realise that it is an actual town. Throughout the village are panels that provide more information on the history of the town and its buildings. The town has a few accommodation options including a campground (+64-6-762 5881) along Whangamomona Road with its collection of abandoned homes.

Whangamomona

From Whangamamona, the road continues through magnificent rural scenery, and the odd few buildings with moss-covered roofs indicate that the valleys here are not completely abandoned, then it climbs yet another saddle. Tahora Saddle provides breathtaking views across a landscape of rugged hills. Accommodation and camping (+64-6-762 5858) is available right on the hilltop if you like the idea of spending the night in absolute tranquility, with stunning views towards the mountains of Tongariro National Park. This is the halfway point along the Forgotten World Highway.

An even more remote campsite can be found at the Ghost Town of Tangarakau, 6km/4miles east of the settlement of Tahora along the unsealed Raekohua Road. Tangarakau Village used to boast a population of around 1,500 during the early 20th century, but the community gradually moved away and these days there are nothing left but a few abandoned homes and the Holiday Park. This is a truly remote part of the journey, set amidst splendid bush scenery.

Just north of Tahora along The Forgotten World Highway is the one lane Moki Tunnel, affectionately known as ‘Hobbit’s Hole’. Soon after, a detour takes travellers to the gorgeous Moki Forest with its picnic area and rusty old boilers from an industrial era long gone. The road continues to the impressive Mount Damper Falls (see page…), located in the unspoilt landscape of the Waitaanga Conservation Area. The detour is approximately 20km/12miles return along a well maintained unsealed road and is worthwhile if time allows. Access to the falls is on private land and the track is closed for lambing from 1 August – 31 October.

Moki Forest
Mount Damper Falls
Friendly local along the way
Cautious driving

A short drive from Moki Tunnel is the spectacular Tangarakau Gorge, set within the Tangarakau Scenic Reserve. The scenery along this route is simply breathtaking as it takes travellers through lush New Zealand bush reminiscent of a Jurassic era. This part of the journey is on an unsealed road and it is strongly recommended that slow speed is maintained. Next to the Tangarakau Stream you’ll come across the small, unassuming grave of a man named Joshua Morgan, simply known as Morgan’s Grave. He was one of the earliest surveyors of the area and was working in the Tangarakau Gorge when he became ill and died on 3 March 1893, aged 35. His wife never remarried and 60 years later her ashes were placed on his grave. The road that he marked out is now the Forgotten World Highway.

Tangarakau Gorge
Morgan’s Grave

Less than 20 minutes’ drive from Morgan’s Grave is a road that tempts visitors to continue to a town named Ohura, located in the valley of the Waitewhena Stream. If time allows, this will make for a memorable detour, to say the least. The town is almost completely cut off from the rest of civilization, and indeed Ohura is in danger of becoming a ghost town. The streets are empty and the main road lined with mostly abandoned and derelict buildings. It seems to be stuck in a time warp, consisting of a shrinking community who turned their backs on the advances of modern technology. Even the internet is a strange concept here. The current population is only 120, a far cry from the nearly 650 people who lived here when it was a bustling village, before the coal mines closed nearly half a century ago. There are no shops, services or accommodation in Ohura, but there is a Museum (Tui Street) that hosts a collection of memorabilia and artifacts from a forgotten era, much befitting to the town itself.

Main Street, Ohura
Main Street, Ohura

If you want to experience another ghost town, continue along Ohura Road for 16km/10miles to the village of Matiere, where more derelict and abandoned homes and buildings await you. Matiere boasted a population of around 750 during the milling era of the 1920’s and 30’s, but today only about 50 people remain in this remote town. Truly a Forgotten World. From Matiere you can continue to State Highway 4, which will take you to Te Kuiti, or you can backtrack to State Highway 43 to complete your journey along the Forgotten World Highway.

Along State Highway 43, at the settlement of Tokirima, a road leads to the isolated Ohura Falls, set within the Maraekowhai Reserve. A short easy walk leads to a viewing platform, with great views across the falls. This is a 36km/22miles return detour from State Highway 43.

Shortly after Tokirima is Nevin’s Lookout, from where you have wonderful vistas across the rugged landscape. About 15 minutes further is a DOC campsite, located in the Ohinepane Recreation Reserve, where you can camp ($) on the banks of the Whanganui River in absolute tranquility.

For some great walking in podocarp forest, turn off at Paparoa Road, 4.5km/3miles east of the campsite, and head down Te Maire Valley Road, shortly after crossing the bridge. There is a car park and toilets at Te Maire Reserve, located on the northern edges of the spectacular Whanganui National Park. The easy loop track takes about two hours to complete and features a swing bridge, boardwalks, and stunning bush scenery with an abundance of birdlife.

13km/8miles north of Paparoa Road is the town of Taumarunui, where the Forgotten World Highway ends.

Taumarunui

Day 22 – Ohakune to Tokaanu via Taupo

CRATERS OF THE MOON

171 Karapiti Road, Taupo. +64-27-496 5131. Entrance fee. $. Open 7 days. 8.30am-5pm. Closed 25 Dec.

Craters of the Moon is yet another opportunity to experience earth’s awesome activity. A 45-minute track snakes its way through an area of moss, steaming ground and large craters in a landscape that strangely resembles a distant world. An additional 20-minute track leads to a viewpoint for marvellous views across this bizarre landscape. The small entrance fee makes this one of the most affordable geothermal fields in the country. Located just 10 minutes north of Taupo, Craters of the Moon makes for an easy and memorable excursion.

https://cratersofthemoon.co.nz/

HUKAFALLS JET

200 Karetoto Road, Wairakei. +64-7-374 8572. 0800 485 253 (within NZ). $+. Open 7 days. Oct-Apr 8.30am-5pm. Dec/Jan 8.30am-5.30pm. May-Sep 9am-4pm.

For an up close experience of the dramatic Huka Falls, a jetboat trip towards the waterfall is a must. Strap yourself in and jet across the Waikato River at speeds of 80km/50miles per hour towards the mighty Huka Falls, with exhilarating 360 degree turns along the way, and at the base of the impressive waterfall. The trip takes approximately 30 minutes and is one of the most thrilling experiences you’ll have. Highly recommended.

https://www.hukafallsjet.com/nz/

ORAKEI KORAKO – THE HIDDEN VALLEY

494 Orakeikorako Road. +64-7-378 3131. Entrance fee. $$$. Open 7 days. 8am-4.30pm. Last entry 4pm in winter.

Orakei Korako lies about halfway between Taupo and Rotorua, and is slightly more off-the-beaten track than most other geothermal parks. Situated at the end of the road in a magnificently scenic setting, Orakei Korako truly is a Hidden Valley. A short boat trip across pretty Lake Ohakuri takes you to a strange yet beautiful volcanically active landscape of colourful geothermal features and spontaneously erupting geysers. It feels as if you’ve arrived at a forgotten prehistoric world. Boardwalks take visitors across stunning features where the sheer size of ancient lava flows and mindblowing silica terraces are simply out of this world. Another feature at Orakei Korako is a geothermal cave – Ruatapa Cave – the only of its kind in New Zealand, and one of only two in the world located within a geothermal field. Orakei Korako is sure to be a highlight of any visit to New Zealand, so place this at the top of your list.

https://www.orakeikorako.co.nz/

TOKAANU

The town of Tokaanu is a quaint little place. This is not a tourist hot spot, nor is it a picture perfect village. Yet, there is something about Tokaanu that makes you want to come back again and again. It is a tranquil place with many charming timber buildings, thermal pools, steaming vents, and an old wharf that has been here since the 1880’s before roads reached this part of the country. Back then, tourists traveled by stagecoach from Waiouru to the Tokaanu wharf and then onwards to Taupo by steamer.

Next to the Tokaanu Thermal Pools (+64-7-386 8575. Entrance fee. $. Open 7 days. 10am-9pm. Closed 25 Dec) on Mangaroa Street, is the free Tokaanu Thermal Walk – an easy 20-minute bush walk where boardwalks take visitors through a seemingly alien landscape of steaming pools and spluttering mud.

Set aside a couple of hours to visit Tokaanu, or overnight at the historic Oasis Motel (+64-7-386 8569) with its natural hot mineral pools.

Tokaanu Thermal Walk