FORGOTTEN WORLD HIGHWAY
This 150km/93miles stretch of road takes travellers into the heart of a world forgotten by time, with dramatic scenery, deep gorges, abandoned homes, and tiny settlements, of which Whangamomona with its population of 30 is the largest. There are no petrol stations along the route, and limited facilities, and it is advisable to stock up in Stratford before you commence the journey. Although the road seems relatively short, it is a winding, narrow road that climbs a number of saddles, with about 12km/7.5miles of unsealed road. Allow at least three hours to two days to complete the journey, depending on the number of stops you intend to make. With the sheer number of attractions and magnificent scenery along the way, it is recommended that you don’t plan to travel much further beyond the Forgotten World Highway in one day. All along the route you will find information panels that provide fascinating insight into the history and geography of the area. The Information Centre in Stratford has a map of the Forgotten World Highway, showing all attractions.
The first part of the journey takes travellers through the wide expanse of patchy farmland that is so synonymous with this part of Taranaki. One of the first settlements is Douglas, which consist of only a small scattering of houses next to the road. From here the scenery changes dramatically as the road gradually ascends Strathmore Saddle, the first of four saddles. There is a great picnic spot on the summit with magnificent views of Mount Taranaki to the west and the mountains of Ruapehu, Tongariro and Ngauruhoe to the east. It’s almost impossible to believe that, millions of years ago, Strathmore Saddle lay at the bottom of the ocean. Yet, there are many fossilized shells to prove this as fact.
From the village of Strathmore a short 4km/2.5mile detour along Brewer Road leads to the historic Makahu Tunnel, set within stunning scenery of the Kirai Scenic Reserve. The tunnel was constructed in 1907.
Just beyond Strathmore is a chance to stretch your legs at Te Wera Arboretum, where visitors can enjoy a short but beautiful forest walk through a collection of trees that were planted during the early 1960s by the Newz Zealand Forest Service. Soon after, the road climbs and descends another two saddles, the Pohokura Saddle and Whangamomona Saddle, both offering spectacular views of the surrounding landscape.
The small village of Whangamomona is the first (and only) sizeable town on the Forgotten World Highway. With a population of only 30, the town feels almost deserted. A number of pretty timber buildings line the streets, including the iconic Whangamomona Hotel, a disused Post Office, General Store (of which only the facade remains), a church, and, of course, a passport control booth! The village was tongue-in-cheek proclaimed a Republic in 1989, a move that has placed it firmly on the tourist map. The Repulic Day celebrations, held biannually every January since 2001, draw thousands of visitors to this remote part of New Zealand. The entire village seems like a replica pioneer village attraction and it takes a while to realise that it is an actual town. Throughout the village are panels that provide more information on the history of the town and its buildings. The town has a few accommodation options including a campground (+64-6-762 5881) along Whangamomona Road with its collection of abandoned homes.
From Whangamamona, the road continues through magnificent rural scenery, and the odd few buildings with moss-covered roofs indicate that the valleys here are not completely abandoned, then it climbs yet another saddle. Tahora Saddle provides breathtaking views across a landscape of rugged hills. Accommodation and camping (+64-6-762 5858) is available right on the hilltop if you like the idea of spending the night in absolute tranquility, with stunning views towards the mountains of Tongariro National Park. This is the halfway point along the Forgotten World Highway.
An even more remote campsite can be found at the Ghost Town of Tangarakau, 6km/4miles east of the settlement of Tahora along the unsealed Raekohua Road. Tangarakau Village used to boast a population of around 1,500 during the early 20th century, but the community gradually moved away and these days there are nothing left but a few abandoned homes and the Holiday Park. This is a truly remote part of the journey, set amidst splendid bush scenery.
Just north of Tahora along The Forgotten World Highway is the one lane Moki Tunnel, affectionately known as ‘Hobbit’s Hole’. Soon after, a detour takes travellers to the gorgeous Moki Forest with its picnic area and rusty old boilers from an industrial era long gone. The road continues to the impressive Mount Damper Falls (see page…), located in the unspoilt landscape of the Waitaanga Conservation Area. The detour is approximately 20km/12miles return along a well maintained unsealed road and is worthwhile if time allows. Access to the falls is on private land and the track is closed for lambing from 1 August – 31 October.
A short drive from Moki Tunnel is the spectacular Tangarakau Gorge, set within the Tangarakau Scenic Reserve. The scenery along this route is simply breathtaking as it takes travellers through lush New Zealand bush reminiscent of a Jurassic era. This part of the journey is on an unsealed road and it is strongly recommended that slow speed is maintained. Next to the Tangarakau Stream you’ll come across the small, unassuming grave of a man named Joshua Morgan, simply known as Morgan’s Grave. He was one of the earliest surveyors of the area and was working in the Tangarakau Gorge when he became ill and died on 3 March 1893, aged 35. His wife never remarried and 60 years later her ashes were placed on his grave. The road that he marked out is now the Forgotten World Highway.
Less than 20 minutes’ drive from Morgan’s Grave is a road that tempts visitors to continue to a town named Ohura, located in the valley of the Waitewhena Stream. If time allows, this will make for a memorable detour, to say the least. The town is almost completely cut off from the rest of civilization, and indeed Ohura is in danger of becoming a ghost town. The streets are empty and the main road lined with mostly abandoned and derelict buildings. It seems to be stuck in a time warp, consisting of a shrinking community who turned their backs on the advances of modern technology. Even the internet is a strange concept here. The current population is only 120, a far cry from the nearly 650 people who lived here when it was a bustling village, before the coal mines closed nearly half a century ago. There are no shops, services or accommodation in Ohura, but there is a Museum (Tui Street) that hosts a collection of memorabilia and artifacts from a forgotten era, much befitting to the town itself.
If you want to experience another ghost town, continue along Ohura Road for 16km/10miles to the village of Matiere, where more derelict and abandoned homes and buildings await you. Matiere boasted a population of around 750 during the milling era of the 1920’s and 30’s, but today only about 50 people remain in this remote town. Truly a Forgotten World. From Matiere you can continue to State Highway 4, which will take you to Te Kuiti, or you can backtrack to State Highway 43 to complete your journey along the Forgotten World Highway.
Along State Highway 43, at the settlement of Tokirima, a road leads to the isolated Ohura Falls, set within the Maraekowhai Reserve. A short easy walk leads to a viewing platform, with great views across the falls. This is a 36km/22miles return detour from State Highway 43.
Shortly after Tokirima is Nevin’s Lookout, from where you have wonderful vistas across the rugged landscape. About 15 minutes further is a DOC campsite, located in the Ohinepane Recreation Reserve, where you can camp ($) on the banks of the Whanganui River in absolute tranquility.
For some great walking in podocarp forest, turn off at Paparoa Road, 4.5km/3miles east of the campsite, and head down Te Maire Valley Road, shortly after crossing the bridge. There is a car park and toilets at Te Maire Reserve, located on the northern edges of the spectacular Whanganui National Park. The easy loop track takes about two hours to complete and features a swing bridge, boardwalks, and stunning bush scenery with an abundance of birdlife.
13km/8miles north of Paparoa Road is the town of Taumarunui, where the Forgotten World Highway ends.
